Caretos
If you’re planning a visit to Portugal during Carnival season, immersing yourself in the vibrant celebrations scattered throughout the country is a must. Yet, for an authentic experience deeply rooted in tradition, look no further than the Caretos Festival. Dating back 800 years, this festival unfolds in the quaint village of Podence, recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. It stands as one of Portugal’s oldest and most exhilarating local traditions, where mischievous masquerade figures known as “Caretos” roam the streets, infusing them with an air of festive chaos.
In Podence, the Caretos Festival isn’t merely seen as a carnival but as a Pre-Lenten commemoration, cherished by the locals as a time-honored tradition tracing back to the era of ancient Celts. As winter draws to a close and spring beckons, villagers adorned in vibrant woolen costumes and eerie leather masks, complete with hefty cowbells, embody the spirit of the devil as they take to the streets.
Throughout the festival’s three-day duration, the Caretos unleash raucous antics, from raiding taverns to clamoring through the streets, their bells ringing with fervor. Among their endeavors is the unique tradition of blessing women by playfully tapping them with their bells, a symbolic gesture tied to fertility and the imminent arrival of spring. However, women don’t remain passive participants; adorned in elaborate masks resembling old rag dolls, they partake in their own ritual of renewal by tossing ashes at passersby.
The pinnacle of the festival occurs on Lent Tuesday, marked by a mesmerizing display where Caretos encircle a towering effigy made of wood, igniting it in a blaze that illuminates the night sky with sparks and fervor.
Traditionally, the role of Careto was exclusive to men, but as the festival gained traction, inclusivity became paramount. In 2019, UNESCO recognized this evolving tradition, acknowledging the participation of women and children as young as five, fostering a sense of community and continuity that resonates deeply with the village’s heritage.
Despite their devilish personas, Caretos are forbidden from setting foot in the village church, a testament to their symbolic association with the devil. Yet, beyond this restriction, they seize every opportunity to engage in lively dances and playful interactions with the villagers, reminiscent of bygone eras when their antics knew no bounds.
Today’s Caretos exhibit milder behavior compared to their predecessors, whose escapades often bordered on the outrageous, yet held a charm that left lasting impressions on the village’s folklore. For some, like Amilcar Torres, the memories of youthful escapades endure, marked by daring pursuits and unforeseen outcomes that ultimately shaped lifelong connections.
The contemporary generation of Caretos comprises predominantly young men, many of whom return to their roots in Podence solely for Carnival. Proud bearers of their village’s heritage, they relish donning the iconic costumes that not only preserve their anonymity but also embody a rich cultural legacy.
However, embodying the spirit of a Careto comes at a cost, with elaborate costumes fetching prices as high as €1000. Despite the expense, a professional outfitter in the village caters to demand, ensuring the tradition remains accessible to all who wish to partake.
The UNESCO recognition has bestowed newfound prosperity upon Podence and its Caretos, breathing life into the village with increased funding and a burgeoning tourist trade. Spearheaded by renowned architect Edouardo Souto De Moura, a comprehensive restoration effort is underway, safeguarding the village’s architectural heritage for generations to come.